Spring may have taken its time this year, but it’s finally making an appearance—and with it comes the start of auction season. While the UK weather hasn’t quite caught up, the first Watches of Knightsbridge auction is officially here. Like the last two, this one returns as an in-person event, bringing with it the excitement of seeing the pieces up close. As always, we’ve selected a few standouts and are looking forward to sharing our thoughts.
CARTIER LONDON TANK CINTREE
Lot 29: The mention of wristwatches almost inevitably brings Cartier to mind. Louis Cartier not only left an indelible mark on the watchmaking world but was also instrumental in popularizing the wristwatch itself. Yet, Louis was just one of three remarkable brothers—alongside Jacques and Pierre—who helped shape the legacy of the Cartier name. Each brother carved out a presence in a different corner of the Western world: Pierre established himself in New York, while Jacques set his sights on London. It was in London that some of Cartier’s most daring and avant-garde designs came to life.
However, it wasn’t until 1966, under the visionary leadership of Jacques’ son, Jean-Jacques, that Cartier London truly came into its own. This era marked the birth of uniquely British Cartier creations—watches that stood apart from their Parisian and New York counterparts. For many devoted collectors, London is considered the spiritual home of Cartier’s boldest designs, where traditional craftsmanship meets fearless innovation.
While this London Tank Cintrée may not be as radical as the Pebble, Crash, or Lonsange, it still bears the unmistakable hallmarks of Cartier London. Like many London models, its dial was thoughtfully reimagined. In pursuit of a cleaner aesthetic, the traditional chemin de fer (railway track) chapter ring was omitted. Yet, the use of Roman numerals—a signature of models like the Baignoire, Pebble, Oval, Oval Maxi, and Crash—remains. What sets this circa 1968 piece apart is its striking black dial with stark white numerals, a rare combination.
At first glance, the Tank Cintrée might seem like a stretched version of the original Tank. But its defining feature is the gracefully curved case, designed to contour perfectly to the wrist. This curvature not only enhances comfort but also allowed Cartier to experiment with more generous proportions—giving rise to models like the Grand Tank Cintrée.
Estimate: £30,000 – 50,000
ROLEX 3-6-9 OYSTER PERPETUAL RETAILED BY JOYERIA RIVERIA
Lot 169: At first glance, this watch may appear to be a simple, unassuming wristwatch. But look closer, and you’ll discover an exceptionally rare and remarkable Rolex. What makes it so special? features co-signed dial that displays the text “Joyeria Riveria” above the OCC designation. This 1953 Datejust was retailed by the Joyeria Riviera, the jeweller based in based in Havana, Cuba, since 1943 and the famous jeweller has had the privilege of stamping their name on various other vintage Rolex watches. Besides this, you’ll also notice the dial has patinated to a creamy tone and while it’s not perfect, this does give it some rather endearing character.
Moreover, a detailed inspection reveals dagger-shaped hour markers and a Rolex coronet that aren’t applied to the surface—they’re embossed and recessed into the dial, creating a captivating sense of depth. Adding to the intrigue, the watch features a Super Oyster crown that, despite not being screwed down, still maintains its waterproof integrity. This example from 1953 is crafted in stainless-steel and features both reference 6084 and 6284.
Estimate: £3,000 – 4,000
The Watches of Knightsbridge auction will take place on the 7th June 2024 at 2pm BST, to review the full catalogue visit watchesofknightsbridge.com.
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