When you think about Vacheron Constantin, you think about how elegant and refined their timepieces are. The Traditionelle collection is full of super complicated timepieces but amongst them is the simple and beautiful time only reference 82172. Very seldom does such simplistic design not reveal its hidden detail and it’s no different with the Traditionelle, its sharp edges and clean styling enhance it details.
The Traditionelle is a modern timepiece that takes cues from Vacheron’s past models and of course this is good thing. The watch manufacture is heaped in 260+ years of history and tradition, and this piece, while contemporary, also pays tribute to the past. This specific Tradtionelle reference 82172/000P-B527, which used to be a part of the Patrimony Traditionelle range, sports a classically styled 38mm x 7.77mm case that is clean and unfussy. The fluted crown is simple but effective and incorporates Vacheron’s emblem; the Maltese cross. The long art deco-styled lugs are nicely integrated into the case and have a subtle curve which aids to the comfort while fixed to your wrist.
The case back sports a coin edge effect, giving it a very classical “dress watch” look. The striking feature of the Traditionelle is of course the dial that features some beautiful little details. The dial on this limited edition is made entirely from platinum and because of this, exhibits a gentle sparkle. The dial makes use of railroad track style minute markers, while the long ingot-shaped hour markers add subtle but noticeable depth to the dial.
At 6 o’clock is the recessed small running-seconds subsidiary dial, which features a distinctive blued hand. The dauphine-shaped hands also offer up another subtle detail that would probably go unnoticed by many. The edge that creates contrast is done by use of different finishings: one half is mirror polished, while the other half is satin polished. Covering the dial is AR coated sapphire crystal to stop glare.
The Traditionelle reference 82172 houses the in-house made manually wound calibre 4400 AS movement. And because it bears the Poinçon de Genève, Vacheron Constantin have adorned the movement with their second to none finishing flare. The 21 jewelled movement is decorated with undulating Geneva stripes, perlage and has a power reserve of 65-hours, and is made up of 127 different parts. But admittedly it would have been nice to see a power reserve indicator located on the rear, however, this would have increased the movement’s lean 2.8mm thickness somewhat.
For me the Traditionelle reference 82172 is the perfect gentleman’s wristwatch that is nicely paired with smart or smart-casual wear. This particular limited edition features an alligator strap with Ardillon pin buckle, which has been stitched using interwoven platinum and silk thread. That said, some may see it as being a bit on the small side but this timepiece exudes classic elegance, which is nothing less than what I’ve come to expect from Vacheron over the years.
The Traditionelle Collection Excellence Platine is limited to 75 pieces and is exclusively made in platinum. It is priced at £31,300, which isn’t that crazy for a solid platinum watch that is limited to 75 pieces. For more information, visit the official Vacheron Constantin website.