A few years ago, Tudor introduced their first ever proper GMT timepiece, however, their older more expensive sister also introduced a new GMT, which left quite a few – me included – thinking “has been planned?” While we were assured this wasn’t the case you can’t help but think it might just have been. Fast-forward to 2022 and guess what, it’s happened again. Last week we highlighted the most talked about GMT from Watches & Wonders, however, this week we are highlighting one that sailed a little under the radar from Tudor.
As you’ll most likely be aware, Tudor have no real history when it comes to GMT’s but of course Rolex do and that is something you’ll notice with the current design. We’ve previously gone in-depth with the various GMT-Master timepieces produced by Rolex, so I’ll not bore you with that information. The GMT has stood the test of time and in my humble opinion is one the most useful modern mechanical complications. Whether you’re a regular or occasional jet setter the GMT’s functions are perhaps more apt than any other mechanical watch function available today.
When Tudor released their first GMT a few years ago, they went for the tried and tested blue and red GMT scale fitted to a stainless-steel case on a steel bracelet. This time, they’ve gone for another classic combination that’s rather fitting. The majority of Tudor’s model’s features a steel & gold example, so a S&G GMT makes sense but the addition gold bezel with a black and brown insert is somewhat reminiscent of Rolex GMT-Master model dubbed the “root beer”.
This new S&G GMT sports a 41mm case made from stainless-steel and yellow gold, with a mixture of satin brushed and polished angles. The Black Bay GMT is waterproof to 200 metres (660 ft) and as said by Tudor “designed to withstand the elements.” Its winding crown tube is also satin-brushed steel, while the crown is made of yellow-gold. The case is finished in a fashion we’ve come to expect from Tudor, with precision but retaining that tool-watch charm and likeability, hence the reason it is available on a choice of three bracelets: black Jacquard fabric, aged brown leather or a riveted steel and gold.
The bidirectional rotatable bezel is calibrated for 24 hours, with the twelve daylight hours printed on the brown section and the night-time hours on the black. As the bezel is made from aluminium, as opposed to ceramic, it not only lends a more authentic GMT appearance but also means it will one day patina quite nicely. One of the standout features of the bezel that I really like are the use of elongated numeral font, that if you look closely matches that of the “GMT” text written on the dial.
The dial is styled in the typical fashion we’ve come to expect from Black Bay; it’s a matte black affair, with large, applied markers, inlaid with Super Luminova and a unintrusive date aperture at 3 o’clock. However, it is nice to see the use of gold for all text and the minute track. While the use of “Snowflake” hands on a dial with round markers is still something that in my opinion doesn’t quite look right but it works.
Tudor developed a new in-house calibre reference MT5652 for the Black Bay GMT model back in 2018 and have used the same movement in this new model. The GMT functionality has been fully integrated into the movement rather than modular, this approach has given Tudor a more flexible calibre that allowed them to keep this new movement svelte and identical in thickness to the standard Black Bay. The COSC certified calibre MT5652 offers a power reserve of 70 hours, featuring distinguished finishing on its bridges and main plates, as well as a satin-brushed rotor all measuring some 31.8mm in diameter and 7.52mm thick.
I really like this new Black Bay GMT S&G from Tudor, and the conscience use of black and brown is a nice little touch from them. Its rugged charm is evident and GMT functionality makes it perfect for the frequent jet setter. Like the steel version, the thing I admire about is how understated it is. Unlike its shinier, more expensive, and seemingly impossible to find older sister the Black Bay GMT S&G is much subtler, with its satin brushed angles and gentle hue of black and brown 24-hour bezel – it’s a tried and tested recipe.
The Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G on the riveted steel and gold bracelet is priced at £4,390 and is priced at £3,300 on the leather strap or fabric strap. For more information on visit tudorwatch.com.