As per usual, every year speculation is rife about what Rolex will introduce and this year was no different – once there was actually confirmation of new releases for 2020. The Submariner is arguably the most iconic watch of all time. Over the last few decades very little has change and even the changes that have been made are more along the lines of evolution and not revolution, and so Rolex have kind of stuck to this winning formula. Yesterday Rolex introduced to the world its new generation of Oyster Perpetual Submariners, one of which we shall briefly look at today – simply because it’s perhaps the purest of them all: the non-date Submariner.
This year Rolex introduced the new 41mm Submariner and this version you see here in the images is the new ref. 124060, the newest non-date Submariner. The entire Submariner range has been revamped, including some new examples in precious metals, most of which include a date function – obviously this model being the exception. As mentioned, Rolex have made a few updates, some of which are quite noticeable but one that would perhaps go unnoticed is the new calibre 3230. That said, everything else is pretty much the same Submariner many have come to know and love.
This new Submariner features a black Cerachrom bezel insert, with recessed numerals and diving demarcation in silver. This winning formula creates a balanced contrast between the steel case and Osyter bracelet, as well as the gloss black dial and Cerachrom bezel insert. The centre case in crafted from a solid block of what Rolex is calling Oystersteel (one would assume this is 904L stainless steel which Rolex have been using for sometime) and is guaranteed to a depth of 300 metres (1000 feet). The case back has a finely fluted edge that is hermetically screwed down. Completing the signature look and feel of the Submariner is the Triplock winding crown, fitted with a triple waterproofness system that screws down securely against the case and is flanked by protective crown guards.
The non-date 41mm Submariner is equipped with the in-house self-winding calibre 3230 and like all of Rolex movements, is chronometer certified and boast a power reserve of 70 hours. The calibre 3230 makes use of a blue Parachrom hairspring patented and manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive alloy, as well as a Chronergy escapement, which offers greater resistance to magnetic fields, inherently making it more accurate. As you may be well aware by now, all current Rolex movements are COSC certified but Rolex themselves carry out further testing with the movements cased and simulate daily wear, with even stricter tolerances, making sure deviation is no more than +/- 2 seconds per day. However, as I mentioned before, it would be interesting to see if Rolex ever develop their own certification as other watch brands have done over the years?
Keeping all this Submariner goodness fixed to your wrist is the Oyster bracelet that is equipped with a Rolex-designed and patented Oysterlock folding safety clasp, which prevents accidental opening. It also features the Rolex Glidelock extension system, designed and patented by the brand. This micro adjustment mechanism comprises a rack located under the clasp cover and a toothed sliding link that locks into the chosen notch.
Briefly observing the new 41mm Submariner there is one quite notable difference; the lugs are appeared to be somewhat slimmer. This in my humble opinion gives this new generation of Submariners a much more classic look. It’s been well noted in the past that Rolex collectors and aficionados alike always felt the lugs on previous Submariner just looked a tad bloated, and this is something Rolex have now remedied but this would appear it has come at the cost of making it 1mm larger… It will be interesting to see how this looks and feels in the metal – so until then I shall reserve full judgement.
The new 41mm Oystersteel non-date Submariner, will retail for £6,450. For more information on the new Submariner, visit rolex.com.